Nothing Fancy fish house offers diners Southern authenticity

LEARY — Hidden away on a lonely crossroad 21 miles west of Albany sits an unassuming little restaurant of near legendary local repute, where everyone feels welcome and no one leaves hungry.

Nothing Fancy Catfish House specializes in catfish, fried catfish to be more specific, and they do it so well that diners travel from miles around to the quaint, rural restaurant for a taste of true Southern authenticity.

Owner Katherine Manley, who bought the restaurant in 2002, said her secret is doing everything the old-fashioned way.

“Well, I have owned the restaurant now for 15 years,” Manley said. “I bought it in 2002. And I do everything the way my grandmother used to do it at home. There is nothing that is store-bought. We use corn meal, salt, pepper and spices, and buy only the freshest catfish from Simmons Catfish Farm in Mississippi. I remember my grandmother always made sure that her fish was never greasy. We pride ourselves on that, and we do it the way it used to be done at home.”

Nothing Fancy serves a variety of other seafood, including oysters, shrimp and mullet, as well as staple sides such as french fries, cole slaw, sweet potato fries, onion rings, cheese grits and fried okra. But the catfish is the signature house offering.

“In my opinion, there is only one way to cook catfish, and that is fried,” Manley said. “That is our specialty.”

Manley was quick to suggest the fillets and an appetizer of Nothing Fancy’s famous fried green tomatoes.

“The fried green tomatoes are very popular,” she said.

The tomatoes arrived thin and crispy, served with a side of ranch dressing. The light flour-based breading provided a seasoned crunch, which complimented the natural tang of the fruit. Both were augmented by the creamy ranch. The overall taste of the tomato explodes on the palate and leaves the diner wanting more.

Another order please.

While awaiting the main course, a visit to the pickle station is highly recommended. Bread-and-butter pickles and crackers are available for the more reserved eater, but for those with more adventurous taste buds, Nothing Fancy’s secret recipe dill pickles are famous.

“The recipe for our pickles was taught to me by my sister, Emily,” Manley said. “And it is a closely guarded secret.”

When the main course, consisting of catfish fillets, hush-puppies, french fries, cole slaw and cheese grits arrived, it was like being wrapped in a warm blanket of deliciousness.

The boneless fillets offered a hearty portion of fish, cooked to perfection — a light, crispy corn meal-breaded exterior and soft, flaky meat.

The cole slaw was made fresh with a delightful balance of sweet and tang. The cheese grits were properly cooked, salted and cheesy, fries were piping hot and a jug of Southern sweet tea was brought to the table for self-serve refills.

Nothing Fancy serves up a meal that can satisfy the appetite of even the most voracious eater, but if the mountain of comfort is not enough, then a selection of home-made cakes is available for those with a sweet tooth.

Flavors, including red-velvet, coconut, carrot, chocolate and caramel, vary from night to night, depending on availability, but they are all delicious.

This restaurant is a little out of the way, but it is well worth the trip. There is “Nothing Fancy” about the food, but it sure is good.

Nothing Fancy Catfish House is located at 4269 Georgia Highway 234 in Leary and is open Thursday through Saturday, from 4-9 p.m.

For more information, call (229) 792-6420.

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